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Beyond their practical needs, designers have embraced the idea of bags and shoes becoming a means to add an extra layer of texture, decorative detail, and whimsy. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière blew up the label’s classic alter-e-wallet and transformed it into an oversized wallet-cum-file bag, while at Victoria Beckham, models deftly carried the pieces. purses made of blunt-cut tassels look like well-groomed puppies in a pocket. their arms. But the epitome of the new accessory is seen as having countless designers sending bags down the runway in the same fabric as the jackets, skirts and pants worn by models. In Valentino’s case, the accessories matched the model’s face. Fashion is a playground and designers are inviting everyone to join.
Perhaps in response to the rise of Crocs, Birkenstocks and other streamlined comfort basics, footwear has been pushed to the limit of what it can do while still retaining a functional quality. its capacity. At Hermès, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski placed fisherman-inspired leather sandals on carbon sculptures, and Jeremy Scott stretched the toe on a pair of heels into a flamingo head at Moschino. Other designers treat shoes as easels, embellished with ruffles, feathers, tassels, or other metallic embellishments. This isn’t the season to plant daffodils—unless you’re carrying a bag that looks like it. Before, your bag needed to match your shoes. Well, now the bag needs to fit your everything. It can be as subtle as Tod’s structured handbag worn with a matching lightweight mint leather skirt, or Sportmax’s psychedelic vision, which includes an actual computer-sized tote bag, a shirtless top. hands with jacket, midi skirt and boots. This is the future we were promised!1 / 22
Designers are expanding beyond the boundaries of traditional shoe shapes and bringing interesting architectural details to the heel—at Dries Van Noten, the curved golden heel sparkles like a sculpture. by Boccioni, and at Off-White, the go-go boots seem to go anywhere with a chunky silver heel that appears to be made of coiled loops. Flat platforms and molds undulate in curvilinear designs—see: Schiaparelli’s gold-toed strappy sandals or delicate Shang Xia slippers, which float on what appears to be a ceramic platform. Teddy bear bags seem to be everywhere on the spring catwalk, from glittery bags at Gucci to bed bags at Balenciaga. But animals aren’t the only thing turning into bags this season: Witness Collina Strada’s literal bag of broccoli, or Botter’s bag of ice cubes. Very cool (sorry).1/12
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